Electricity. The LOEWE Fall Winter 2021 women’s runway collection is a full-frontal, visually saturated statement in shape and colour, pumped up to the max.
Breaking with the LOEWE formula, creative director Jonathan Anderson escapes the boundaries to define new ones. An exploded palette of bright, acrylic hues is juxtaposed in graphic compositions then mapped onto abstract silhouettes that swing around the body, drape all over it and sprout out of it. The sheer joy of fashion-making is harnessed to convey an idea of dressing up as an audacious act, marking a point of departure towards new grounds.
Geometry takes the lead, in both silhouette and surface treatment. Sinuous lines alternate with straight ones, angles with curves, fluidity with firmness, while quilting, prints, intarsia and jacquards amplify the synthetic, electric glare of the whole. Fringes and flaps move. Cut-outs and draping reveal hints of sex appeal. Embellishment dissolves onto the surfaces, and graphic elements such as circles and broken stripes electrify the pragmatic feel of playful uniforms.
Quilted coats with neckerchief hems. Long tailored jackets and cropped trousers. Giant tassels running along the hem of strict suede suits. Long dresses with flaps. Skirts that protrude on one side. Draped tops, draped dresses. A smattering of multiple appliqués. Intarsia and cut-out jumpers. Leather body pieces. Masculine riding coats. Gatherings, folds.
Colour-block lug-soled boots, pleated buckle and bracelet high heel boots and the multifaceted Puzzle in colourful stripes add another bolt of electricity. The XL Flamenco clutch comes in bright hues, while silk calf and a sharp line give the new Goya bag a statement presence. First launched in 1975, and long identified as quintessentially LOEWE, the Amazona bag takes the spirit of the season in nappa calfskin and Anagram jacquard variations. Knotted and twisted bracelets and earrings in sterling silver have the visual softness of a piece of nappa. Chain elements are twisted on gold or rhodium finish sterling silver bracelets and necklaces.
Hedonism is switched on.